Tuesday 23 October 2012

Chapoutier Beaurevoir Tavel Rose 2010

It's such a vibrant shade, bursting with life, deep like a cherry, but with a flame burning behind it. Great example of Tavel, with all the morello and pomegranate you would hope to find, some super-fine tannins and a chewy/crispy redcurrant finish, complete with the acid you would also find in one of those zesty berries. A little sweet spice on the nose keeps it in balance. Serious rose at a less than serious price.

Drink now
50AED + tax
15.5/20

For more information on Tavel, including travel tips, check out this post:
A golden wine triangle - The best Red, White and Rosé in the Southern Rhone

Sunday 21 October 2012

D'Arenberg "The Stump Jump" White blend 2010


Considering its price, this is a very complex little number - but I guess that's no surprise, as it contains at least 4 grape varieties that are vastly different and incredibly aromatic (Riesling, Sauvignon blanc, Rousanne and Marsanne). It's a funny old thing - tropical and citrussy like a sauvignon and then all fat with honey and rockmelon. A touch of residual sugar makes it supremely quaffable. Good crowd pleaser for a party.


Drink now
50AED + tax
13.5/20

Kientzheim-Kaysersberg Anne Boecklin Pinot Gris Schlossberg 2009


Wow - that name's a mouthful. And this is a whole mouthful of Pinot Gris. It's dessert style, rich and viscous with a lovely hint of botrytis (noble rot). This translates as a forward palate of crunchy nashi pears, a little toasted almond and a nectar finish that's 10% apricot, 90% jasmine. Not only to be drunk during dessert - it's not at the syrup end of the scale, but just sweet enough to also cut through something rich and fatty - like foie gras or a rendang curry.

Drink now or over 5 years
$28 US (duty free)
15/20

Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2010


Big fruity wine, and quite complex for a simple CDR blend. Almost a poor-man's-Condrieu, with over half the blend made up of mouth-filling apricot scented Viognier. A little spice and peel on the nose, tropical up front, big fat middle palate, and just enough acid to help it finish fragrant and long. A very versatile wine, and flavoursome enough even to go up against a curry. Worth seeking out.

Drink now or over 2 years
85AED + tax
16/20

La Grand Chapelle Bordeaux Sauvignon Semillon 2009 (Antoine Moueix)


A lesson for all buying wine in very hot countries - always check the vintage. Even when it's fresh stock, this kind of wine (low priced Bordeaux Blanc) is really supposed to be consumed within the first year or so of bottling. There could have been a little bottle variation here, but I doubt it. This wine is simply past its use-by. It's the colour of urine and smells like a dirty wet haystack. Relegated to cooking wine (maybe) Bring on the 2011 please...

Drink 2 years ago
30AED + tax
9/20

Jacobs Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010


My favourite tasting from the range. Shows intense regional and varietal character - it's just a bundle of blackcurrant, eucalypt and mineral salts from that super Coonawarra soil. Quite ripe and forward with excellent body, slightly grippy tannins and some lovely complexity with delicate oak treatment and savoury leaf notes.


Drink now or for 5 years
70AED + tax
15/20

Jacobs Creek Reserve Shiraz 2009


Textbook Barossa Shiraz - super viscous and chocolatey with a spicy and lean blackberry jam backbone. Nice oak treatment - a little sweetness but not over-the-top coconut-flavoured like some from the region. Fairly good vintage too, so will cellar well for a few years. It's already quite nicely balanced, but expect the spice and chocolate to transition to molasses, cedar and coffee. Soft. Yum.


Drink now to 10 years
70AED +
14/20

Jacobs Creek Reserve Chardonnay 2011


Squeaky clean chardy that is bound to be a room pleaser - not too heavy and buttery, and not the other flinty extreme either. Just some light fruit hints of green mango and lemon oil, mixed with gorgeous bready yeast, which is the highlight. Does not taste like a mass produced wine, and will probably even age for a year or two - rare for an Aussie Chardonnay.

Drink now or over 3 years
70AED +
14/20

La Chablisienne Petit Chablis 2010


This entry level Chablis (100% Chardonnay) is pretty decent. It's got a couple of years on it now, and is showing some richness that it wouldn't have previously, and has softened out nicely around the edges. Saying that, it's still slightly mineral and has some lovely lemon peel notes, so retains its Chablis style - it's far from flabby. Best thing about it is the lingering finish, complex and creamy like a great quality organic honey on artisan sourdough. Ok - a bit verbose, but true. High priced for a Petit Chablis, but probably worth it.

Drink now
80AED + tax
14.5/20

Sauvion Plaisir de Vigne Muscadet 2010


This is a simple Muscadet, so does not have the "sur lies" specification, meaning it does not rest "on lees" - on the spent yeast, but may be filtered. It's therefore a clean neutral wine. It's beautifully crisp, very mineral, and has a lovely flor sherry character (which, incidentally comes from the yeast). It's absolutely perfect for oysters. But don't stop there - it's a food wine, and will go with almost anything, particularly if its seafood or herb based. A great dinner party wine for connoisseurs if you can't afford Champagne. Careful though - you'll throw it back like lemonade.

Drink now or over next 2 years
40AED +
14/20

Henri Fabre Pure Dédicace Bandol Rosé 2010


This is probably breaking the rosé budget for many. At about 100AED plus tax in Dubai, it's not going to qualify as a quaffer. However, it's also a very good example of what you get when a winemaker takes rosé seriously. It's richer, fruitier, creamier than any rose I've had recently, and yet, still light in body, and steely dry on the finish. There's extra complexity, something a little cakey and spicy. Almost Eton mess in a glass - strawberries, redcurrant jelly and cream. But with a marzipan twist and dry, beautifully dry. Gorgeous.

Drink now
100AED + tax
16/20

GPG Garganega Pinot Grigio 2011


I picked this one up for three reasons - one, it was cheap, two, it has Garganega in it, and I'm a big fan of Soave (Garganega is the main grape variety of this great value dry, fragrant and yet neutral white wine), and it's a joint operation between a UK merchant I know little about, but more importantly, a Piemontesi wine producer by the name of Araldica, who are improving their quality by leaps and bounds. It's a simple wine, but well made. The nose is full of stewed apples and pears, and the palate has some lovely acidity. It's a fab everyday wine, and definitely worth the money.

Drink now
35AED + tax
13.5/20

Cantina di Custoza Pinot Grigio 2011


A little more forward than many other Pinot Grigios on the market. Ripe nose, full of fruit (pears mainly), but also a little chemical/oily smell, which fortunately does not dominate. A little spice on the palate, again, rare for modern Italian Pinot Grigio, and welcome, as far as I am concerned. Lovely long tropical finish - dried pineapples - and a little almond kick just to make sure it doesn't cloy. Fuller body than most PGs, and good for drinking on its own, rather than all the others, which need something served with them to make them taste like something.

Drink now
50AED + tax
13.5/20

Pegasus Bay Semillon Sauvignon 2010


Complex little number from Waipara, South Island NZ. Close enough to Malborough to still be famous for Sauvignon, but fortunately far enough away to avoid that tragic cats' pee nose so many cheap NZ Sauvvies have. Still a little herby, but in a gentle, farm-straw kind of way rather than a freshly mowed lawn. This is helped by the addition of some mild oak and some yeast lees that add richness, funk and sweet vanilla to the mix. Still, the wine has some lovely tropical notes, more towards the lemon and passionfruit spectrum.

Drink now and over 1-2 years
100AED + tax
14.5/20